FOCACCISM PHENOMENOLOGY: AUTOLYSIS OR POOLISH?
FOCACCISM PHENOMENOLOGY: AUTOLYSIS OR POOLISH?
Photo Source: Antonino Rampulla
Brutally skip preambles and introduction, if you miss it, read the previous phenomenological examination concerning poolish, biga and proof . The aim is, sic et simpliciter, to try to understand, through empirical tests, what are the best ways to enjoy one of the most welcome gifts that mother nature and human ingenuity have made us: the focaccia!
Focaccia Poolish.jpg
What is poolish? It is a preferment prepared with equal parts of water and flour and a minimum amount (as far as I am concerned) of yeast, better if stuffed in the refrigerator ( obviously in a bowl ...), so much the yeasts are active even between 4 and 8 degrees Celsius, for 16 hours (if at room temperature, for much less time but the final quality of the poolish will also be different). The rule of leavened products always applies: if you are in a hurry, the crepes (crepes, for the Francophiles) are prepared in much less time ... The rest of the ingredients of the dough are added to the poolish, taking into account its 100% physiological hydration ( even if a little water actually evaporates a little).
What is autolysis? I never really understood it completely. It seems more like a matter of faith. It is prepared with 55% of water compared to flour, exactly like the biga (if we want to syndicate that the biga hydrates to 50% convincing us that that 5% really makes a substantial difference, let's talk ... ) But the chariot is kneaded a little more coarsely than autolysis and a little yeast is added immediately. In autolysis only the yeasts naturally present in the flour would act. So autolysis is a slightly more mixed dough but without added yeast. Another difference compared to the chariot is that in autolysis all the flour is generally used and not only a part ... How? Errata corrige: even in autolysis only a percentage of flour can be used, in this case from 20% up. Ok ... So this is a slightly more worked chariot, without yeast, which will be added later ... And the biga is instead an autolysis with a little yeast and a little less worked. ..
Pane Poolish.jpg
The problem is also semantic: autolysis, from a biological point of view, is the process by which a cell self-destroys ... In reality, in the process we are trying to understand, the enzymes present in the flour, "activated" by the water and the right heat, break down the starch into sugar which can thus become "food" for endogenous yeasts. The "reaction" of the yeasts with the sugars generates carbon dioxide and ethanol: the side effect, therefore indirect with respect to the action of the yeasts, is the swelling of the dough.
The phenomenon commonly called leavening , is nothing other than the storage of carbon dioxide and ethanol (which will however evaporate with cooking) between the glutin mesh of the dough. The mechanical action of the kneading is responsible for the creation of the glutin mesh. However, if the leavening process takes place too early compared to the structural consolidation of the dough (i.e. the sufficient elongation of the protein chains, i.e. the protein synthesis , which takes place in parallel thanks to particular enzymes), the result will be more scarce in terms of elasticity, extensibility and alveolar potential, in one word, in terms of strength . In order to optimize the goodness of the final post-cooking flavor it is therefore important that not all sugars are broken down: there is therefore a limit, relating to the characteristics of the flour used, which must not be exceeded. So talking about 48-hour leavening, it can mean many beautiful things but also that that dough would be better if it continued to "rise" in the dustbin...
Pane Poolish.jpg
Is it therefore legitimate to speak properly of autolysis ? In any case, we are interested in the result.
I repeated the experiment twice to check the uniformity of the impressions. For the same mix (50 grams of "00", 100 grams of re-milled semolina, 150 grams of whole wheat tummy, 20 grams of extra virgin olive oil, 10 of sugar, 10 of salt, 40 grams of sourdough, 70% of hydration the first time, 85% the second time; poolish at 30% the first time, 40% the second time; 100% autolysis for both times), times (for poolish and "autolysis", 16 hours in fridge at 8 degrees Celsius; for "leavening" of the complete dough, another 8 hours at spring room temperature) and cooking (on refractory stone with home oven at maximum temperature, grill above, ventilated in the center, static below), I have not found a substantial difference from the qualitative point of view: both mixtures were good but different and more suitable for one use than another.

The mixture with poolish has an alveolation tending towards a lateral extension rather than upwards and more irregular. It has a more delicate flavor and a more tending to softness fragrance / softness ratio. In my opinion, more suitable for making pizzas and focaccias rather than bread. It will be that in this period of quarantine (for covid-19) the taste of the mother yeast begins to tire me a bit, I know that in the mix with poolish the taste of the mother yeast is more present than the mixture with autolysis.

The mixture with autolysis has a more regular honeycomb, tends to swell more and a little more evenly. It has a more "panoso" flavor but less than the biga. The flavor of the mother yeast is less present and the fragrance / softness ratio tends more to the fragrance.
Text Source: Antonino Rampulla
ARCHIVE NEWS
CART RUTS MODELED ON SOFT ROCK? CART RUTS MODELED ON SOFT ROCK?
Read also RACK OR HOUSING FOR CLOGS? Some cart ruts from the Targia district, in Syracuse, and most of the cart ruts from Granatari Vecchi, in Rosolini, give the impression of having been impressed, modelled, on a rock that was originally viscous, not entirely solid. As absurd as this hypothesis may seem, especially in Granatari Vecchi, the softness of the shapes and the at least anomalous uniformity of the rock bank, as if it were a concrete casting, which hosts the cart ruts, is unicum compared to the lithic context in the area. In Targia this phenomenon is less impressive but if we consider the cart ruts essentially cart tracks, therefore furrowed roads indirectly resulting from the repeated passage of carts along the same route, we do not understand why such uniformity and smoothness is present, in the majority of cases, also on the parts not affected by the passage of the...
RACK OR HOUSING FOR CLOGS? RACK OR HOUSING FOR CLOGS?
Read also CART RUTS CUT FROM QUARRIES In the presence of slopes, even slight ones, in some cart ruts in the Targia district, in Syracuse, central holes are found with a diameter of between 30 and 50 centimeters and a depth of 15-20 centimeters, spaced about 50 centimeters apart. Neither the position (they are not exactly in the center of the cart ruts and perfectly aligned with each other), nor the shape appear perfectly regular: either the passage of time and any wear have profoundly modified their original shape or, simply, they have never had a systematic regularity. However, the offset in position between one hole and another is never completely “off-axis”: there is always a portion about twenty centimeters wide that coincides with the same portion of the previous and subsequent hole. The best preserved and most defined holes are found in the cart ruts usually called Scala...
CART RUTS CUT FROM QUARRIES CART RUTS CUT FROM QUARRIES
Back to CART RUTS AND A FEW TOO MANY PROJECTIONS I will skip any preamble, referring to what has already been written regarding the presence of cart ruts in south-eastern Sicily. The easy academic tendency has been, in most cases concerning cart ruts, to consider them in terms of the latomie, or quarries, with which very often (for example in the cases of the Targia or Pizzuta districts) they share the same territory. According to this theory, the carraie would have been indirectly created due to the wear of the rock at each passage of carts or sleds loaded with extracted stone blocks. I will not repeat the arguments presented so far in order to demonstrate that this is a theory that has little solid foundations on an in-depth analysis of the cart ruts. However, I will add a piece by demonstrating the implausibility of a connection between them in both chronological and functional...
CART RUTS AND A FEW TOO MANY PROJECTIONS CART RUTS AND A FEW TOO MANY PROJECTIONS
Read also THE POLISHING OF THE CART RUTS I will skip any preamble, referring to to what has already been written regarding the presence of cart ruts in south-eastern Sicily.Considering the possibility that the cart ruts were gradually dug by the passage of carts pulled by pack animals, for example pairs of oxen, observing certain sections of the cart ruts present in the Granatari Vecchi district, in Rosolini, and in the Pizzuta district, close to the Vendicari Reserve, two questions arise: 1. Why force the animals to pass over rough surfaces and protrusions high, compared to the base of the furrows, even 60-70 centimeters? 2. Why, in the presence of such obstacles, not opt for a detour? For Mottershead, Pearson and Schaefer such protrusions appeared later, since at the time of the passage of the wagons, a layer of earth covered the rocky bank, thus not making the obstacle...
THE POLISHING OF THE CART RUTS THE POLISHING OF THE CART RUTS
Read also THE PROBLEMATIC EDGES OF THE CART RUTS I will skip any preamble, referring to to what has already been written regarding the presence of cart ruts in south-eastern Sicily. To proceed with this comparison I have chosen a probable capital and the corner of a recess present in a block of the northern walls of Eloro that would seem to resemble a pinax, that is, a niche that would have housed a fresco of the heroa, but which a more careful observation refers to a system functional to the grip of the block through a pincer winch. Both elements, like the curt ruts, have remained at the mercy of the elements for millennia, and are therefore subject to comparable wear and tear due to the passage of time. The finishing of the capital should be of a high standard, since it is an architectural element that also has an aesthetic function. The recess, on the other hand, should have...
THE PROBLEMATIC EDGES OF THE CART RUTS THE PROBLEMATIC EDGES OF THE CART RUTS
I will skip any preamble, referring to to what has already been written regarding the presence of cart ruts in south-eastern Sicily.As can be seen in other sites around the world, in some cart ruts I visited, in particular in the Cugni district in Pachino, in the Granati Vecchi district in Rosolini and in the Targia district in Syracuse, a clear border can be seen, a sort of frame, next to the grooves, more marked externally, barely noticeable internally. The borders I measured have a width of 14-20 centimeters and a height of 8-10 centimeters. Not all cart ruts have such frames present or particularly evident, regardless of the degree of wear or degradation. They are found above all in cart ruts with less deep grooves. As already described in detail, given the presence of furrows with a depth of even 65-70 centimeters, the wheels of a possible vehicle would have had to have a...
THE PROBLEM OF CART RUTS IN SOUTH-EASTERN SICILY (PART FOUR) THE PROBLEM OF CART RUTS IN SOUTH-EASTERN SICILY (PART FOUR)
Click here to return to third part Clapham Junction As in the Maltese site Misrah Ghar Il-Kbir, also in the Targia and Granatari Vecchi districts the cart ruts intersect and cross each other in a similar way to the track switches in a railway station. The nickname Clapham Junction that was given by David H. Trump to the Maltese site, derives precisely from the similarity with the famous English railway station. For Sagona these are agricultural furrows and water channels, for Mottershead, Pearson and Schaefer these are abandoned paths due to obstacles and wear. Obviously we do not know what the morphology of the Syracuse and Rosolini territory was at times when the cart ruts were traced, but considering the current context, there certainly would have been no agricultural reason to build them, given the presence of fertile land, springs and fresh water courses just a few kilometers...
THE PROBLEM OF CART RUTS IN SOUTH-EASTERN SICILY (PART THREE) THE PROBLEM OF CART RUTS IN SOUTH-EASTERN SICILY (PART THREE)
Click here to return to SECOND PART Considerations on the theses of Mottershead, Pearson and Schaefer I find this study extremely interesting, even if I am perplexed by this emphasis on the loss of hardness of the wet rock given that Malta is among the European territories at greatest risk of desertification (as is unfortunately also the south-eastern area of Sicily). We don't know exactly what the climate was like in Malta when the cart ruts were made, as we don't even know for sure how old they were made. However, it might be understandable to take the humidity factor as a starting point. n strong consideration, in relation to a territory constantly subject to rainfall, but why would the ancient Maltese have had to intensely travel with loaded carts right after a downpour, with all the inconveniences that for example the mud would have entailed? The Maltese territory is...